The Ramadan Bazaar

People may argue and fight with one another until the cows come home, but there is one thing that brings everyone together here in Malaysia. And that's food! It seems that Malaysians specialise in the happy art of culinary diplomacy.

This is very important in a country where there are over 60 different ethnic groups, such as Malays, Chinese, Indians, Ibans, Bidayuhs, Kadazandusuns and others, and a wide plethora of cultures and religions, all sharing this 50 year-old nation (or is it 44? can't remember!). As well as living together more-or-less harmoniously, each group has its own cuisine, its own unique way to tickle the palate and satisfy the seemingly bottomless appetites of Malaysians and foreigners alike.

So, now it's the Muslim fasting month of Ramadan, and we see once again that uniquely Malaysian culinary phenomenon - the Ramadan Bazaar. These Bazaars, officially sanctioned and licensed, spring up in large public places to serve those who want to buy food to break the fast with.

The way it works is that people go to the bazaar a few hours before breaking the fast - around 6 40 in the evening in Kuching. They can choose from a stunning array of culinary delights at reasonable prices, sold at market stalls lined up under tents with sellers shouting their wares like costermongers.

It's also important to remember that it's not just the Malays and other Muslims who go to the Ramadan Bazaar. Other races who are not Muslims also frequent them. Everyone enjoys the Ramadan Bazaar, regardless of religion.

The atmosphere is crowded, noisy and hot, and the flies, which must think they've arrived in Fly Heaven, are always being manically whisked away from the food by stallholders with plastic bags on sticks. Your head swims from a combination of the heat, residual hunger, and the overpowering choice of tempting morsels in front of you (none of which you can eat of course until 6. 40!)

The fare on offer at the Ramadan bazaars includes fish skewered and smoked on sticks, satay, little sweet and savoury cakes and pastries (known as kueh) and of course the staple Muslim foods in Malaysia such as roti canai (flat bread filled with meats or eggs) and nasi briyani (a type of curried chicken rice).

And we must not forget two of the most heart-attackingly delicious drinks you will ever have in Malaysia - Air Bandung (pink, milky and sweet, made with grenadine and served chilled) and of course Air Tebu (or sugarcane juice to the rest of us!).

Ah, for a life of the senses!! Why don't I show you some pictures, to whet your appetite:


Left: Ramadan Bazaar, Tabuan Jaya. Right: The Roti Canai Man


Left: Selling lots of stuff with Chili in it! Right: Kueh Stall


Left: Various sweet things to try.. Right: Sugar cane, before it gets juiced


Left: For chili-loving penguins.. Right: Satay sticks


Above: More Roti Canai..

So you can appreciate my love for Ramadan. On the one hand it's a great opportunity to clear out your system and go on a diet, on the other hand, you can enjoy scrumptious and cheap food when your fasting is over.

I tell you, if the Ramadan Bazaars didn't exist, they'd have to invent them!